Farmer Pyke’s Forgotten Railway

Taking a break – and jumbling the chronology of things, I wanted to add a postscript to the postscript. At the end of the 2009 cruise log, I mentioned how unobservant I was with the rivers.

Recently, I was reminded about this, whilst sailing the Yare. It was an Autumnal Day, and rarely – I had the opportunity to put 3 reefs in, set a storm jib and enjoy some proper heavy weather sailing.

I’m not being fool-hardy, it’s worth sailing in heavy weather, you should understand how your boat performs when fully rigged. I know that I’ve sailed ‘Corsair’ with 3 reefs on 3 occasions in 12 years. This was the first time with the new rig.

It was comfortable, and more importantly balanced – you should always match a jib to each reef you take in. ‘Corsair’ has 3 jibs of varying sizes, and as such, the rig always gives you the right power that’s manageable. And, keep it simple and straightforward – be able to manage the rig even on a breezy day.

This video below gives you an idea of the day;

Co-incidently, ‘Corsair’ is sailing left to right, and heading toward the site of Jalil’s grounding; https://broadssailing.blog/2019/11/05/2009-cruise-day-5/

Also, the remains of a fascinating, hidden Broadland feature are nearby.

I’m sailing past the ghost of a railway. Between 1922 & 1937 – Claxton Manor was occupied by John Samuel Pyke, and in 1926 he built a railway here.

Built on the cheap, it utilised ex WD ‘jubilee’ track, which was effectively a 2ft gauge Hornby train-set. Rolling stock was some tipper wagons, and the cargo… Norfolk Beet!

Each year – local farms produce a tremendous volume of sugar beet, and in the 1920’s, the roads between Claxton & the sugar factory at Cantley were poor, unmetalled – and to travel to Cantley factory you were dependent on Reedham ferry. 7ton limit. A 1920’s lorry would need to make several trips, and you’d pay each way on the ferry.

Not to mention – Beet season is through the winter, so the roads could be relied upon to be muddy (!) making for a slow journey.

Or you can use a wherry – upto 30ton at a time, and can moor directly outside the factory to load & unload.

Cantley sugar-beet factory. A wherry is bottom LH corner, just ahead of the handsome steamer. (circa 1913)

In fact, all of this serves as a useful reminder that the Broads were an industrial landscape. Don’t be fooled by the picturesque windpumps, the Dutch came and drained the marshes – the rivers were the transport network.

Anyway – Farmer Pyke’s railway was also used to help construct some reservoirs at Cantley in 1926 – such was its portability, 16ft pre-fab sections can be lifted at will and rerouted.

The route can be seen below, running from Staines Barn through Claxton manor farm to the river Yare.

Farmer Pyke’s railway 1926 – 1926 (showing 1928 extension to Staines Barn)

Each train consisted of about 10 tipper wagons, each holding 1/2 ton (or so) of beet. This charming railway was the spirit of Heath Robinson himself!!

Although charming, the railway worked hard. Wherries initially carried 30tons of beet at a time, and by the late 1920’s steel lighters carrying upto 100 tons of beet at a time were used, being towed downstream by steam tug.

Loading certainly was done by hand, on the bankside of the Yare, during winter.

The locomotive was the star of the show. Locally made, it featured a recycled Model T Ford car (yes, really!)

The conversion was undertaken by John Keeler & Sons – agricultural engineers from nearby Thurton. To make a locomotive, you need only take one Model T, the frame of two skip wagon chassis’ & avoila!

For good measure, some sprockets and chains were robbed off a threshing machine and added to the mix.

Pyke’s locomotive. An imposing beast – 8ft wheelbase & solid canopy.

Now – I won’t lie. I LOVE this. The ingenuity of it, the exposed chain drive to both axles, its all… well it’s excellent! Just imagine the noise!!

The loco is described as being ‘black and sort of rusty’ – with a spare engine being kept in reserve at the farm and readily swapped when overhaul was required.

Sadly – by 1936, despite an extension right upto Staines Barns, it was clear that the improved road network was causing both the wherries and the railway to sweat. Initially to cross the road, a simple solution was to bolt in the track piece across the roadway ‘as & when’…

As the local authority surfaced the road through Claxton – this makeshift crossing was frowned upon. Not to be deterred – the rails were brought VERY close to the edge of the road, and splayed slightly either side.

The entire train, loco & 10 loaded wagons then ‘lumped’ off the track, and drove across the road surface itself before re-railing itself on the opposite side!!

I have only one photograph of the loco working – on a Whit Monday holiday, circa 1928;

Driver Billy Mason at the wheel – circa 1928 with a unusual looking crop of Beet!!

But yes – by 1936, the writing was on the wall. Sadly the railway was no longer needed. Farmer Pyke’s cunning wasn’t done yet. He managed to sell the entire railway to the Ouse Catchment Board, for use in Cambridgeshire.

Quite what they’d do with a ‘sort of black & rusty’ loco I don’t know… (cherish it I hope!)

1936 – final journey for the loco.

In 2005 – I witnessed the conversion of Staines Barns into housing, and saw several lengths of rail removed from the concrete, the last fragments of the line. Today nothing really remains, hence – the forgotten railway.

Anyway – yes. I wanted to write this, as demonstration of my statement about looking and understanding the subtleties of the Broads landscape. What’s hidden away is usually interesting.

I’m lucky enough to love where I live.

Next time, I promise I’ll write more about the boat… (!)

2009 cruise – Day 6.

There’s nothing like team-spirit. Or a team in good spirits. Which is what we were, mostly. Chief Engineer Jalil stood a round (or 2), and then became miserable for the entire evening.

The object of his affections, well she didn’t work last night, day off! (We didn’t laugh, not much).

We made an early start, on a typically cold day, fully aware we had a lot of distance to cover to get ‘Corsair’ back home.

‘HB’ arrived, neatly just as we were singled up and ready to leave, and we motored downriver in company. Unusually – the skipper was overcome by a bout of cleaning & I felt the need to clean the underside of the cabin roof (!) So much to the bemusement of my crew, I set to this task with gusto.

A tidy boat is a happy boat!

Whilst moored at Reedham Street – we were engaged in a weird conversation with Vernon the burger van man. He’d learnt of Nulsec’s sinking – and wanted to know the technicalities… he laughed!

Not much can be said of our transit of the lower Yare – the ebb ran and we motored a long stretch without many notable features.

Yarmouth reached, and it proved to be itself (!) I took full advantage of the situation, and having despatched Jalil & Chris B to Asda – I kept a viligant ‘anchor watch’ waiting for slack water.

Ever alert.

Truth be told – were we all tired by this point. I’d lived aboard ‘Corsair’ for 9 days now, having attended a regatta before the cruise. We motored from Yarmouth up the lower Bure.

At Stracey – we did decide to set sail, in frankly what were gusty conditions. This was mostly a cry for help on our part. For much of the Lower Bure Theo had kept us entertained with a theory that all wind-pumps were actually Darleks… (yes, really?!)

He wore us down.

To be fair, the first 2 miles of sailing (tacking obviously!) weren’t too bad. At one stage we even thought we might catch up with the hen-party who’d passed us on a motor cruiser!

However just upriver of Stokesby – we encountered a viscious squall, which after 10 minutes showed no signs of abating… Offering careful explanation “$%&* this” – I swung ‘Corsair’ into the weather bank and we lowered sail.

It was at this point, we learnt HB had lost their dinghy – and would be several hours later coming through Yarmouth. Perhaps sailing was finished!!

We then motored back to Oby quietely, tidying ‘Corsair’ as we went. Shortly before 4pm we arrived, moored and departed. l

Joe

Postscript

The 2009 cruise is 10 years past now. It’s made me smile, writing about it in lots of ways.

We flew by the seats of our pants a fair amount, and drank far, far too much.

Our holiday started with a near-drowning, followed closely by a sinking, several collisions (both with land & other boats), featured some broken ribs, an overall age range from 78 to 20, 5 boats, three rivers, and ALOT of tacking.

There was the full range of human emotion. Rage, anger, irritation, love, infactuation(those poor barmaids) rejection, grief & sometimes even normality!

As a comparison, I look now at the rivers in a very different way, the lower Yare HAS lots of features. You’ve just got to look for them and embrace the subtleties of the Broads landscape.

For example, I know now that the lump of Brambles on the North bank, just upriver from Raven Hall isn’t just Brambles.

It’s the remains of some ancient Lime Kilns, as part of the once extensive Berney Arms settlement. You just have to look, and explore.

Also, why spend a week tacking?! Go the other way for god’s sake…

Goodnight.

2009 cruise – Day 5.

Ouch – Lots of Ouch. Port, its lovely, but ouch. My head!!

After the skipper had gathered himself – ‘Corsair’s crew enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast and we decided there was nothing for it, but to go sailing. Certain parties were reluctant – and the Skipper had to motivate the malingerers!

Once everyone had risen – we tacked back downriver, past Brundall gardens. Both s/n83 ‘Pollywog’ and parent-craft Zandamon were moored at church fen.

S/N83 – PollyWog

‘HB’ had left early from Surlingham (6am) – with ‘Seabird’ and ‘Dragonfly’ choosing Rockland St. Mary for the overnight stop.

‘Corsair’ and ‘Nulsec’ were heading back to Cantley, and for a change we tacked! In fact, there had been far too much tacking already this week, and we’d all gotten fed up!!

Robert was unceremoniously dumped ashore at Brundall railway station – Uni and a shower proved too much temptation (he’s weak willed).

Pushing on, I muttered the immortal “lunch at Buckenham”, and handed control to Chief Engineer Jalil.

THREE TACKS. THREE. having handed over the tiller, after 3 tacks – we ploughed an almighty furrow in the mud and stopped.

Engineer he may be… sailor he ain’t.

All the tricks were deployed – pushing on the quant, swearing, lowering the sails, swearing some more, then hanging crew (Jalil) out on the boom, swearing more…

During this lull, ‘Nulsec’ kindly ran aground nearby – to keep us company!!

Jointly aground. HARD.

We’d run aground on the outside of a bend – where the river was cut out to a 90 degree corner, for turning coasters. 40 years later, no coasters but quite a lot of mud.

We then broke the outboard.

2 hours, 2 HOURS after we ran aground – ‘Corsair’ made her way to Buckenham Sailing Club, where we ate chips. The skipper multi-tasked and planned Jalil’s death…

The fleet decreased again, with ‘Nulsec’ leaving us, ‘Corsair’ due to head through Yarmouth tomorrow – ‘HB’ would meet us later. So we tacked downriver to Cantley, joined by the GWYC fleet. There was a lot of close quarter tacking, and we scared some bystanders!

Much of our day was hungover – and on the mud. Beer… glorious beer!

The skipper needed this.

Goodnight.

Aground… for some time!

2009 Cruise – Day 4

Urgh. Well.

Typically there’s always one. in this case it was Chief Engineer Jalil… He’d fallen in love with a barmaid at Cantley. This lead to an evening of heavy drinking – the junk box played on (and on), and things became blurred…

It was a VERY late return (or early) for those who were staying on ‘T.O.G’. The skipper showed some restraint… (!)

The Only Girl – s/N137.

Two cabins, four berths and ample space for drunkard, love-sick crew members!!

Now, the next day its worth noting that some were alert and fit for duty… Some… well. Less so.

Once again our plan was changed to suit the scale of our hang-overs… We’d head upriver to Surlingham, which gave us plenty of time to bring ourselves into the world slowly… with caffeine. Lots of caffeine.

It was light airs, so we raised the sails on both ‘Corsair’ and ‘Nulsec’ and beat up the Yare. It was even sunny! Yes, this was the life! H.B motored upriver, sweeping past.

Javelin No. 1 – sporting a fraudulent mainsail!

We sailed past Nulsec’s birthplace, at Buckenham Ferry. Here – the 1st 550 (yes, really!) Javelin’s were built. Nulsec is unusual – not least because she is S/N 1, but that she is probably the only wooden decked Javelin still in existence – by S/N 5, the boats were all fibreglass.

More information r/e the Javelin class, which celebrated it’s 50th anniversary in 2018, is available here; https://www.javelinuk.org/

‘Corsair’ moored at Brundall for victualling, and petrol. Strangely there was demand for energy drinks and paracetamol!!

Determined to rescue his reputation our Engineer leapt into action, as we walked upto the shops. His Uncle’s boat ‘Strongbow’ (aptly named) had some mechanical issues (it had a BMC1500 diesel)… ‘nuf said!

Returning from the shops, we looked longingly at the railway station, thinking about civilisation, showers, hot water!! Eventually – we all walked back to the boats!

get back to the boat!!

Jalil had managed to bring life to ancient iron – the subtle clattering and blue haze surrounding ‘Strongbow’ gave it away as we approached! ‘Strongbow’ also served as an excellent camera vessel for ‘Corsair’ as she tacked through Brundall.

Sadly – ‘S/B’ had to retire – oil pressure was scarily low. On ‘Corsair’ then amused ourselves by tacking onwards, aiming at lots of expensive boats, with a probing bowsprit!!!

‘Nulsec’ attempted the shortcut through Surlingham Broad, and ‘Corsair’ took the long way around via Brooms. We didn’t catch them – BUT we did enjoy ourselves, arriving at Surlingham last.

At Surlingham – it was the skipper’s turn. A thoroughly pleasant (for some) – and deeply amusing (for most) evening was spent attempting (and failing) to capture the attention of a barmaid…. (!)

Accepting failure, Chief Engineer Jalil & the skipper took a nightcap (or 4) aboard ‘Seabird’ – and set about getting wrecked commiserating eachother!

Goodnight!

Cruise 2009 – Day 3

Day 3 started with rain. Lots of it. It drummed on the awning and slowly but persistently it revealed all of the deak-leaks. Annoyingly most are above our bunks!

It’s pointless staying in a damp bunk – so over breakfast various damp people from the fleet discussed our destination. No longer was it Geldeston, we’d motor down the Waveney and head for Cantley.

All of this was discussed over a nutritious meal of bacon rolls, and ‘hair of the dog’ Strongbow… design specifications had been exceeded last night. (!)

Following this decision, there was a flurry of activity as tents were folded, masts lowered and every inch of space used to stow gear. ‘Corsair’s’ forepeak was crammed, to the point we’d not get the mast back up ever again…

The outboard decided to break its fuel system at this point – thanks to Chief Engineer Jalil for sorting this (note promotion from Petty Officer!). As we left, we were definitely at the back of the fleet, and all of us soaked.

As ‘Corsair’ towed ‘Nulsec’ downriver a lucrative card-school was hosted in the cabin, the stakes were 2p a bet. All was well until some fool (James) lost his winnings.

Periodically these gambling, drinking swines would come to inquire as to the skippers well-being…

(It took years to find all the 2p coins in the bilges!!!)

As we motored downriver – those swines drank ALL the booze!

In the New Cut – bizarrely we realised that on our tail was ‘Herbie’ we weren’t last! Simon & Sarah were hustling along. Herbie was a 12ft Fibrocell dinghy, but was sporting an Evinrude 20hp on the back! There was nothing but a flurry of spray, a bow-wave and two soggy looking people!!

Fastest dinghy in the East… Or West…

‘Corsair’ and ‘Nulsec’ moored at Reedham Street (to replenish the booze!), and we kept an eye to see if ‘Nulsec’ would sink again. She didn’t, and we managed to get all the sails up, to head upriver for Cantley.

Even the repaired rudder behaved itself!! Both craft enjoyed some champagne sailing up the Yare, to the extent that ‘Corsair’ carried on up with the last of the flood to the Beauchamp Arms…

We moored to a fishing platform – tiptoed ashore as the water swelled the banks and had a well-earnt pint.

Our stolen pint.

Returning to Cantley kept us on our toes, but we’d drifted off (literally). Flush with success we poured ourselves some room temperature Gins and drifted back in the early evening sun.

Almost civilised!

The weather hadn’t finished with us, a ‘roger’ belted into us just upstream of Langley – shitshitshitSHIT, helm down, let go sheets, no good the booms in, HOLD ON!

Somehow – Robert in his role as official reporter coolly held his nerve (and his drink) and photographed how far we were over;

Damp bunks… Again.

Suitably chastened – with split Gins and frayed nerved we returne to Cantley

Quick phone call sorted extra beds. So 4 lucky souls will sleep aboard on ‘The Only Girl’ (S/N137) for the night.

In the meantime though, the morning’s hangovers we discarded, who cares! the pub, the pub!!

Goodnight.

Herbie – at speed. New Cut.